Formerly referred to under the umbrella of “upstate New York,” Beacon, a small town in the Hudson River Valley, is undergoing a cultural facelift.
A different kind of gentrification is occurring here, one that allows Beacon to shine, embracing its quirkiness and its distinct personality that separates it from the rest of the towns dotting the landscape of this lush river valley.
Kitchen Sink, a fledgling restaurant that is as endearing as its name, encompasses the hip vibe that is lending Beacon its renaissance. Flanked by kitchen-themed décor and gorgeous wood work, Kitchen Sink is at once kitschy and quite serious, and aims to make you feel as if you are eating in someone’s home rather than a restaurant, without sacrificing technical acumen.
One year in, executive chef and owner Brian Arnoff charms and disarms his clientele with expert technique and ambitious flavors. Like many restaurants in the Hudson Valley, this ever changing menu is seasonally driven, and the freshness in each dish highlights Kitchen Sink’s close proximity to quality local ingredients.
Arnoff’s skill set only enhances these dishes by presenting accurate portrayals of different types of cuisines the world over, and seamlessly integrating myriad recipes into an innovative menu that excites. It is not every day you find a staple of Vietnamese cuisine (Banh Xeo) alongside Indian-style butter chicken and have BOTH dishes perfectly executed.
A simple salad of local greens and a light lemon vinaigrette prepares you for the delightful, outside the box dishes that are to follow.
Kreplach, pierogi style dumplings that are crispy and flaky like egg rolls, are stuffed with tender, oniony brisket. My family fought over the last one, and I’m guessing we aren’t the first or the last to do so.
Chilled carrot soup, something I wouldn’t instinctively order, was so highly recommended by our very attentive server that I felt it was a must. I maintain that is the case, as nobody can say no to a bright and refreshing chilled soup with a dollop of crème fraiche.
Sea bass is poached and paired with bright spring vegetables, flavorful onions, and a light risotto in vegetable stock. I found myself slurping up the jus with a spoon.
Walnuts and spicy ground lamb and a double helix of umami came together to form elegant patties for the lamb kofta, enhanced by a creamy chickpea puree, sour yogurt, and a spicy carrot slaw.
Butter chicken seems transported straight out of an Indian restaurant, with heaping piles of white and dark meat swimming in a hearty tikka masala sauce and resting atop a bed of spinach couscous. This was definitely a top contender for favorite dish of the evening.
Steak Banh Xeo is a whimsical take on a traditional Vietnamese Banh Xeo. This savory turmeric and rice flour crepe was adorned with a rare steak, cooked for 24 hours in a sous vide, and was by far my favorite thing on the table.
If you live near Beacon (or even if you’re just up for the day), be sure to swing by one of the contributing factors that has allowed Beacon to come into its own as a place with a unique identity and a story all its own.
Twisted Talk: Have you ever been to Beacon, NY before? What’s your favorite restaurant in town? Discuss below!
