The beauty of a pop-up is in its chaotic, slap-dash spontaneity, and if rolling with culinary punches is your thang, then Alex Mitow’s All-American Diner: A Pop Up!, which took place at the now-closed Noah’s Ark deli on the Lower East Side over the Easter weekend, was the event for you.
The hot dog king of Los Perros Locos thought outside the bun and brought a three-night extravaganza of various all-American culinary themes to the plates of Manhattanites last Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. (If you were tracking the event, you’ll notice I don’t mention Sunday and that’s because it didn’t end up happening – as I say, pop-up lovers have to be ready to go with the flow.) The setting saw psychedelic Americana juxtaposed with tired diner seats, colorful tablecloths and plates, the combination of which added to the what-the-heck appeal.
The Thursday night event was presented in collaboration with Time Out New York’s The Empire Club and while a six-course dinner was promised, the reality was more like an elaborate one-course meal in six parts – with free Schofferhofer Hefeweizen beer (including an oddly refreshing grapefruit variety), which left few complaining. Food highlights included Mitow’s moreish Colombian style hot dogs with pineapple sauce, crushed potato chips and salsa in miniature, and meatball sliders on Hawaiian sweet buns. While an in-house dessert was also promised, the reality was unscripted (but delicious) takeout from Doughnut Plant next door. All was set to the tunes of gypsy rockers Sylvana Joyce + The Moment cranked up to 11.
Friday had the deli pumping with a Debaucherous Disco Diner Dinner Party, featuring fries and sliders set alongside tunes from Andrew Andrew, a set of DJ “twins,” dressed identically, who played everything that should be on your iTunes playlist but isn’t. From Jurassic 5 to Ace of Base, this pair of dope doppelgangers made this 1982 baby very happy.
The pop-up had a Latin flair Saturday night courtesy of hosts Dip-Sters, a Dominican cultural collective that throws impromptu events for its members. This made the evening feel more like an awesome house party than a bar or restaurant. The food on offer was equally casual and comforting. Favorites included a mouth-watering sancocho, a Dominican stew featuring meats, root vegetables and corn on the cob eaten with rice, avocado and hot sauce, a tasty mofongo (fried plantain dish) and a whole roast pig, which Mitow paraded around proudly for all to see. It was fun, festive and left me eager to become an honorary Dip-ster.
The take-away from these three nights of food, drink and partying was that Mitow is bringing something exciting to the New York culinary scene. His hot dogs are crave-worthy and not to be missed (you can check them out at his original restaurant) and anything he has planned, while it may not be the most organized, promises to be a good time. It’s fitting: His food is party food and the best parties are those that just fall into place.
Twisted Talk: Were you able to stop in at the weekend pop-up? Are you a fan of Alex Mitow’s dogs at Los Perros Locos? Discuss below!
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